【ECO Style】男士须知的27条着装潜规则

ECO中文网 2018-03-20 08:23:27

27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know


男士须知的着装27条潜规则


You can’t expect to look all dapper and gentlemanly without knowing Suiting 101.


倘若不了解Suiting 101穿衣规则,男士们就很难将自己打造成干净利落,具有绅士风度的型男。


译者:湖畔创译工坊

(部分图片比较大,您可以将手机或平板电脑横过来观看)


1、The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.

1、领带的宽度应与翻领的宽度相称。


SMALTO / malemodelscene.net

It’s all about BALANCE.

西装的协调搭配最重要。


2、In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Mad Men style.

2、一般来说,薄翻领看起来更摩登,宽翻领看起来更怀旧,就像《广告狂人》中那些男士偏爱的西装风格。


AMC

So choose your look accordingly.

那就选择适合你的西装吧!


3、A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.

3、搭配袋巾可增添西装的时尚潮流感,但一定不可选择与领带相撞的图案或面料。


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Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.

不用烦恼你的西装太过保守啦,记住袋巾能给你最大的自由搭配空间,同时还能为你的西装增添一点亮点。


4、When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.

4、购买现成的西装时,首先要检查肩部是否合适。


huffingtonpost.com

Tsk, tsk, John McCain. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are the hardest to tailor, so make sure they don’t stick out or stick up.

啧啧,这不是约翰▪麦凯恩的西装造型嘛。垫肩应与肩宽一致。肩部是最难裁剪的部位,所以要确保垫肩既不向外凸出又不向上凸起。


5、A collar gap between your jacket’s lapels and your shirt’s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.

5、西装翻领和衬衫领口之间的间隙大小可以表明西装合不合体。


putthison.com


putthison.com

It’s complicated. Read more about it here.

这条穿衣规则很复杂。点此阅读更多相关细节。



6、Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you’re attending a funeral.

6、优选棕色或灰色的西装,少选黑色西装,除非你去参加葬礼。


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Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.

深灰色是百搭色,可搭配更多颜色的西装。


7、Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.

7、皮带不能太宽,选择和鞋一样的颜色。


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8、You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:

8、鞋的颜色应该与西装的颜色协调,具体搭配可见下图:


putthison.com / Via reddit.com


9、Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.

9、双开叉西装使男士看起来更摩登与时尚。


jcrew.com


jcrew.com

This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual “hand in pocket” thing.

身材高大的男士更适合这种版型的西装,它给你留有足够空间还让你可轻松随意“手插裤袋”。


10、For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.

10、要想看起来更休闲与时尚,就选择单扣竖领西装。


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11、If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

11、倘若你钟爱更正式的职业装,可选择双扣V形翻领西装。


White Collar / USA


12、The Savile Row Fold keeps your dress pants from falling off the hanger.

12、采用伦敦萨尔维街折叠西装裤的方法,就不必担心西装裤可能从衣架上滑落下来了。


lifehacker.com


13、You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.

13、你的手应该能插进胸部和扣好的西装之间,既要感到舒适合体,又要留有活动空间。


14、Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.

14、坐下前记住先解开西装扣子,否则你有将其撑破的危险。


15、The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.

15、双扣西装的第一颗扣子(或三扣西装正中间的扣子)应落在肚脐正中或肚脐上面的位置。

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16、Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.

16、你的领带最好是打成经典的温莎结,但用半温莎结还是全温莎结则取决于你脑袋的大小。


feeldesain.com

BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If you’re not sure how your head size compares, ask one of your male friends. They should be able to give you an objective opinion.

大脑袋=温莎结 小脑袋=半温莎结 如果你不知道自己的脑袋究竟有多大,可以询问你的男性朋友,他们应该能客观地回答你。


17、If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.

17、 如果你穿的是背心,记住别扣最底部的扣子。


jcrew.com

But plenty of men break this rule and are still able to pull off the three-piece beautifully.

虽然很多男士都违反了这条规则,但他们仍然能穿出西装的时尚感。


18、There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.

18、搭配背心不仅彰显了男士的穿衣品味,而且兼具实用功能。


menstylefashion.com

A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it’s actually visible). if you’re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.

背心搭配单排扣西装最能穿出效果(背心显而易见)。如果你想要在寒冷的天气穿西装,加一件背心就会暖和多了。同时也能让你的西装看起来更正式。


19. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.

19、袖口应该露出约半英寸。


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For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.

想要看起来协调的话,尽量使露出的袖口的长度和脖子后面露出的领口的长度相称。


20.When you get your suit home, you’ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.

20、把西装买回去后,你需要用接缝拆线器或锋利的小剪刀将其修补一下。


Unstitch the jacket’s pockets, remove the tack stitchesfrom the jacket’s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket’sleft sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don’t actually rip the fabricor neighboring threads.

拆掉西装口袋上的线、开叉西装上的粗线和西装左袖上的绣花标。做这种活要非常细心,千万不能毁坏面料或将线搅在一起。


21、Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down.

21、 确保你的袜子足够长,避免坐下时露出腿。


monotopshoes.com

No one needs to see your hairy gams.

没人希望看到你腿上的毛发。


22、Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.

22、领带的颜色应该总是比衬衫的颜色深。


jnormanpost.com


23、The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.

23、西装外套应该足够长,能遮住裤子拉链和臀部。


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24、Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.

24、你的领带应该恰好触到裤子的腰带,或者长度稍短一点。


25、For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.

25、想看起来更时尚,裤子下摆应该正好在鞋子上面。


gq.com

For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces.

想看起来更保守一些,裤脚应该盖住鞋子上方和部分鞋带。


26、If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.

26、 如果你出汗较多,穿一件汗衫。


Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesn’t peekthrough. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse ofundershirt.

最好穿深领的汗衫,避免被人窥见。再好的西服,若是汗衫外露,那也是品位尽失了。


27、Finally, go for the dimple.

27、最后,领带也是要有“酒窝”才够“靓”哦


versamens.com

The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of yourtie, and it gives a slightly disheveled yet polished appearance to yourfinished look. Check out this handy guide on nailing the tiedimple.

“酒窝”就是领带结下面一小块凹陷下去的地方,它给你的整体西装造型增添了一点凌乱感却又不失凝练之气。学习领带酒窝的打法,可查阅相关指南。

湖畔创译工坊(Lat.)精诚译作

翻译:鲁雨洁

审译:张立秋

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